Serum & Ampoule

A Korean serum is a concentrated daily treatment, designed to be used morning and/or evening as part of your routine. An ampoule is an even more concentrated version, often used as a 7- to 28-day treatment for an intensive corrective effect, then set aside or used less frequently.

In practice, both are applied after toner or essence, before cream. The distinction isn't always clear in Korean naming conventions, with some brands calling what is actually a daily serum an "ampoule." What matters is reading the recommended frequency on the packaging and observing the 7 to 10 days of observationwhen introducing a new product.

Frequency depends on the active ingredient. Serums based on niacinamide, propolis, or snail mucin can be used morning and night, without restriction. Serums based on vitamin C are preferably used in the morning onlyto take advantage of their antioxidant action against UV rays. Serums with retinol or AHAs should be reserved for nighttime, and never used daily at the beginning.

Always start with a gradual introduction: every other night for 2 weeks, then every night if the skin tolerates it. The higher the concentration, the more justified this caution. For ampoules used as a treatment, follow the indicated durationthen take a break of 2 to 4 weeks before starting again.

The results of a Korean anti-spot serum (vitamin C, niacinamide) appear in 4 to 8 weeks for a visible effect on the complexion, and up to 12 weeks for established spots. Moisturizing or repairing serums (snail mucin, ginseng) show an effect on radiance and bounce in 2 to 3 weeks.

Consistency is key. A serum applied 5 times a week gives better results than a more concentrated product used inconsistently. Daily sun protection is essential to avoid counteracting the action of anti-spot active ingredients: without SPF, melanin will reform as quickly as it has been corrected.

Vitamin C and Retinol should not be used togetherin the same routine: Vitamin C oxidizes quickly in the presence of retinol, and the combination of both can cause irritation. The solution: Vitamin C in the morning, retinol in the evening.

A niacinamide or propolis serum is compatible with both. The general rule in K-Beauty layering: from thinnest to thickest, and never two exfoliating or corrective active ingredients at the same time. If you add an exfoliating Korean tonerto your routine, prefer using a corrective serum at a different time to avoid overstimulation.

Yes, provided you choose the right active ingredients. Sensitive skin tolerates serums based on centella asiatica, propolis, snail mucin, and low-concentration niacinamide (2-5%) well. These active ingredients soothe, repair the barrier, and hydrate without aggressing.

Active ingredients to avoid on sensitive skin during first introduction: high-concentration purified vitamin C (above 10%), unencapsulated retinol, and AHAs with an acidic pH. If you have reactive skin, always start with an evening application only and observe for 48 hours before reapplying. In case of persistent redness or burning, stop and consult a dermatologist.