Dr. Althea is a Korean brand that focuses on short formulas and a gentle dermatological approach, particularly suitable for sensitive and acne-prone skin. Its two star products, the 345 Relief Cream and the 147 Barrier Cream, concentrate most of the research and reviews in France. The short answer: the brand is reliable, but it is not suitable for everyone, and some products deserve more attention than others.
In this article, we detail what each product truly offers, for what skin type, and how the 345 compares to the 147, the comparison everyone is looking for but never finds a clear answer.
Where does Dr. Althea come from and what is its philosophy? 🌿
Dr. Althea is a Korean brand founded on a simple principle: fewer ingredients, better targeted, for less irritation. Its range relies on botanical extracts, centella asiatica, niacinamide, and hyaluronic acid, with no added fragrance in most references. It primarily targets reactive, acne-prone, and weakened skin.
This "accessible dermatological" positioning has allowed it to carve out a place in a saturated K-Beauty market. It does not seek to compete with COSRX's high-concentration serums or Anua's complex formulas, but rather to offer a reliable skincare base, tolerated by the majority.
A point often overlooked: Dr. Althea is also featured in the Que Choisir comparison of undesirable substances in cosmetics. Some of its products appear there, notably the 345 Relief Cream, categorized due to components reported as potential irritants according to UFC thresholds. This is not an absolute contraindication, but it is an element that very reactive skin should take into account before purchasing. We will return to this in more detail in the section on the 345.
Dr. Althea 345 Relief Cream Review: the most popular product, but not for everyone 🧪
The 345 Relief Cream is the product that generates the most search volume for Dr. Althea in France. It contains centella asiatica, moderate concentration niacinamide, and panthenol. Its texture is light, halfway between gel and cream, absorbed quickly, and non-comedogenic according to the manufacturer.
What the 345 does well:
- It soothes post-acne redness and irritations related to aggressive active ingredients (retinoids, acids).
- It suits oily and combination skin as a recovery cream, especially after an exfoliant-based routine.
- It layers easily under SPF without pilling.
What the 345 does not do:
- It does not sufficiently hydrate dry or very dehydrated skin. Its active ingredients target soothing, not lipid nourishment.
- It does not treat underlying hormonal acne. It limits inflammation but does not regulate sebum.
- It is not suitable for skin already very tolerant to strong active ingredients, which will find its formula too gentle for a visible effect.
Expert's advice: The common mistake is to use the 345 as the sole main cream on dry skin. As a result, the skin feels tight after a few hours. It's not the cream that's bad, it's the wrong usage. The 345 is a recovery and soothing cream, not a deeply nourishing cream. For dry skin, add an oil or a richer cream underneath.
Regarding ingredients reported by Que Choisir: the formulation of the 345 contains preservatives (notably phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin) which are on the UFC's watch list. These substances are legal in the concentrations used by Dr. Althea and tolerated by the vast majority of users. For atopic skin or those with a history of preservative allergies, a 48-hour patch test before use is still recommended.
If you're unsure about choosing your Korean cream based on your skin type, our detailed review of the 345 Relief Cream elaborates on each formulation point with customer feedback.
Dr. Althea 147 Barrier Cream Review: the lesser-known product that ticks more boxes 🛡️
The 147 Barrier Cream is less sought after, but often more suitable. It is formulated with ceramide NP, betaine, and madecassoside, ingredients whose role is to actively restore the skin's lipid barrier rather than simply soothe surface inflammation.
Its texture is richer than the 345, with a slightly satiny finish. It is better suited for normal to dry skin, or skin in recovery after an aggressive routine (retinol overuse, over-exfoliation, reaction to a product).
What the 147 provides that the 345 does not:
- A reconstructive action on the lipid barrier via ceramides, essential for "skin barrier damaged" skin.
- More sustained hydration for 8 to 12 hours on normal to slightly dry skin.
- A more occlusive texture that traps hydration without clogging pores, provided it is used on slightly damp skin.
345 vs 147: which to choose based on your skin type? 🔍
This is the most searched comparison for Dr. Althea. The following table summarizes the actual use cases.
| Profile | 345 Relief Cream | 147 Barrier Cream |
|---|---|---|
| Oily, acne-prone skin | Yes, light texture, soothes redness | Can be heavy, test on a limited area |
| Combination skin | Yes, good option for T-zone and reactive cheeks | Yes, on dry areas only |
| Dry skin | No, not nourishing enough alone | Yes, first choice |
| Damaged skin barrier | Calms inflammation, but does not rebuild | Yes, reconstructive action via ceramides |
| Post-retinoids or acids | Yes, soothes surface irritations well | Yes, can be used conjointly |
| Sensitive skin with allergy history | Patch test recommended (preservatives) | Slightly simpler formula at this level |
Summary: if your main concern is acne and redness, go for the 345. If your barrier is weakened and your skin reacts to everything, the 147 is more appropriate.
Other Dr. Althea products: what's worthwhile and what we'd avoid 📊
Vitamin C Boosting Serum (20% vitamin C) This serum is one of the few affordable products to feature a 20% stable vitamin C concentration in an ascorbate formulation. It brightens the complexion and reduces hyperpigmentation spots over 4 to 6 weeks of daily use. Its strong point: it does not produce the sticky and irritating effect that some pure vitamin C formulas generate. Use in the morning only, always followed by an SPF 50.
This serum is particularly interesting if you already use a retinol serum at night and are looking for a brightening booster for the morning without layering two exfoliating active ingredients.
Pure Grinding Cleansing Balm This cleansing balm is suitable for makeup removal and evening cleansing on normal to oily skin. It transforms into a light oil upon contact with the skin, then into a milky emulsion upon contact with water. It is not occlusive on oily skin and leaves no greasy residue. It falls short of the best K-Beauty cleansing oils on very dry skin.
To Be Youthful Eye Serum Light texture, good tolerance, but not significantly different from COSRX or Anua eye creams. An honest entry-level product for starting an eye contour routine, without risky investment.
Vita Glow Mask A decent sheet mask, nothing more. It doesn't stand out in the range of Korean masks, where Biodance and COSRX offer more pronounced results. Reserved for absolute fans of the brand rather than for fundamental routine use.
Is Dr. Althea cruelty-free and clean? What the certifications really say 🌱
Dr. Althea presents itself as a cruelty-free Korean brand. It does not test its products on animals and complies with European import regulations that prohibit it. The vast majority of its formulas are vegan, with the exception of a few references that contain hydrolyzed silk or marine collagen.
Regarding the "clean" label, the situation is more nuanced. Its formulas are free of parabens, mineral oils, and artificial colorants. However, they do contain common synthetic preservatives (phenoxyethanol in particular), which explains the presence of some products on Que Choisir's watch lists. This is not synonymous with established danger, but it is useful information for very sensitive skin or for people who follow a "shortest formula possible" approach.
If you're looking for alternatives with shorter INCI lists in the soothing segment, the COSRX and Anua ranges should be compared directly before making your choice.
Where to buy Dr. Althea in France and at what price? 💶
Dr. Althea is not yet available at Sephora France, despite several searches by consumers. It is available through specialized K-Beauty retailers, including Holy Skin, with delivery in France within 48 to 72 hours from a stock based in Bordeaux, France, with no customs fees or risk of border blockage.
What to remember about Dr. Althea The brand keeps its promises on its positioning: simple formulas, good tolerance, accessible prices. The 345 is an excellent soothing cream for oily and acne-prone skin, provided it is not used as the sole moisturizer on dry skin. The 147 is often more suitable than expected, especially for skin in recovery. The Vitamin C Boosting Serum is one of the best entry-level products for starting vitamin C without irritation. To find the Dr. Althea product suited to your skin type, consult the Dr. Althea selection on Holy Skin or start with our free skin diagnostic if you're not sure of your skin type.
